surfer girl

i haven’t surfed in 7 years. somehow, whether it was fear of the water or getting dusted – it’s been that long since i’ve paddled out in search of a glassy  inlet wave and rode it left or right down the line back to shore…

but today that finally changed – and it felt SO good to stand up on my dad’s board and ride a few waves. i forgot how amazing it felt… the cool salty water, sitting there with my legs dangling awaiting the perfect sets, determining whether i wanted to go right or go left, and how refreshing it was to use my strength in unison with the ocean’s strength. i loved every second of it! and can’t wait until tomorrow morning to do it all again.



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